For a little while ago skewed a post on grafting indoor, also called bänkympning, the glorious task which for me marks the breaking point between winter and spring. At least as much fun is it to graft in the open on the existing trees. This form of grafting is sometimes called försommarympning or koympning, because you can attach ympriset so high because the strain that it comes out of the reach of hungry cows.
To inoculate the open air is not as well researched and documented as bänkympning, probably because the technology has no further commercial importance today. In many respects similar, however bänkympning and here I describe both the approach and some features of grafting in the open.
time
Based on the information I have been able to find it is possible to graft from the buds on the rootstock begins to swell and until midsummer. The challenge for me was to keep ympriset at rest, so that it is clean developmentally a week or two after the rootstock. I will write more about managing scions ahead, but the key seems to be to take ympriset in January or February and to keep it at a constant 0-4 ° C. Starting ympriset still show signs of wanting to get started, it is time to start inoculating. Purely in terms of the healing, it should apply the same as for bänkymping, that is to say that it is optimal if the average daily temperature is between 10 and 15 ° C during the first two weeks after this grafted. Now it is of course impossible to predict the temperature for such a long time in advance, which also means that seeding in the open is not as safe as bänkympning.
The nucleus
Unlike bänkympning is rootstock at frilandsympning anchored in the ground. Often it can move on established trees that you want passaging quite high up in the crown to get a tastier varieties, more varieties on the same tree (a 'family tree) or better fruit set on the lack of pollinators to the original variety. It can also be self-sown trees causing no good fruit to be processed. We ourselves have to save some time planted many ordinary apple rootstocks in rows in our cultures with the goal of inoculating good varieties of them as rootstocks has grown up so well that they are protected from voles and other pests. A grower in Finland we visited 2017 were grafted into a dozen varieties of the apple tree to use it as a source for future scions. Another way of thinking about grafting in the open is to use established rowans that in any case this comes up all over the place to grow things that are a little better. Rowan is a tree species that is indigenous and therefore works well with the local micro life in the soil. Then it may be possible to grow the right exotic fruits shipova or different rowan hybrids in the forest, just enough light. Finally, a scion who put on a real tree to take advantage of its resources, thus giving the fruit a little faster than if grafted on a regular small rootstock. The possibilities for this method, in other words almost unlimited!
the cut
The branch of the rootstock you grafts into should not be thicker than 5 cm to get the best same healing. I have grafted on water shots of apple trees and they have rarely been thicker than 2 cm. The section I have used most of the klyvympen I described in last post.
If the branch you are grafting on are very rough (round 5 cm i diameter) and the graft frail to the latter, however, clamped down on klyvympning. Then it may be better to use a cut called barkymp. When you make a vertical incision from the edge of the cut surface and down. It is important not to damage the cambium. Scion cropped in the way shown in the illustration, top dipped in caulking compounds and the twig is then pushed into opening. Then attach it with a solid wire or if grundstamen is weak, it may suffice to fix the graft with only ymptejp.
After inoculation, just wait and hope that the weather is favorable. Just this year there have been almost too hot for the optimal healing, but there is still a bit too early to say what the outcome will be.
Exciting! Are there any restrictions on the species interconnections, or the native trees that work well as a basis? I have lots of rowan, asp, willow and alder on the grounds that I was going to dig away, but inoculating more exotic varieties're a much better idea.
Hi! Generally, one can say that it is possible to inoculate the plants in the same genus at each other, Thus, for example, apple (Malus domestica) on wild forms (Malus sylvestris). Then there are of course some exceptions, where even the apple on the apple does not work because of incompatibility between certain individuals. It is also possible to graft within the same family for some plants that are quite closely related to each other, as grafting apple on rowan or pears on quince. All belong to different genera, but the same family (Rosväxterna). Just asp, willow and alder are pretty uninteresting from ympningssynvinkel, but Rowan is very good. If you have our new book, you can check on p. 424 and following which we have compiled what can be grafted onto what among the edible crops.
Jag vill göra det med vårt körsbärsträd, ympa in biggaråer, vad tror du om det?
Testa det! 🙂
Tack för att du delar din erfarenhet. Jag ser fram att gympa i år! ; )
how did it go?
Går det att ympa körsbär och plommon på hägg?
Vi har testat det upprepade gånger och körsbär tar sig dåligt. Plommon kan ta sig fint, but after 2-3 säsonger verkar det uppstå en inkompatibilitet som gör att ymparna dör.
Jag har en trädgård men mer än 60 vilda körsbärsträd. Därför vill jag förbättra denna skog med körsbär genom att ympa in sötare körsbär och bigarråer. Since I am a beginner, I tried the first few years with what I read and watched on Youtube. Results were that approx 5% of the grafts took off. The next year I was more careful and used plastic bags as protection against the vagaries of nature as a small tent over the graft. Results increased 10%. But this year 2026 I bought a grafting scissors at TEMU. After grafting with grafting scissors at the end of February, the results seem to be increasing 20 % or more some look promising but no leaves yet. So for me, the grafting scissors are what lifted my results for cherries. The apple lights have been on the whole time 90% regardless of method.
Hi!
We seem to have got slow growing aronia bushes in part of the garden. Is it possible to graft on a fast-growing variant on those that grow slowly?
Interesting question, it should definitely work! Also try fertilizing and watering regularly, maybe it is possible to speed up the plants then.
Is it possible to graft an elder branch onto the same trunk I took it from? Accidentally cut off the only nice branch on a rather dreary rickety elder and want to fix it now. The branch is fresh, is there any way to put it back or is it done?
I have a darling tree that just today broke after a storm, it makes me so sad to think of never eating the old apples again. What can I do this late in the season to pass the fruit on?, is it too late for inoculation or inoculation (was that what it was called)?
That's sad! It's probably too late, but it would still be worth trying direct grafting from the cracked tree to another tree. Oculation can also work if you're lucky. Fingers crossed!
Stone fruit inoculation seems more reliable than open field grafting as I understand it. A dilemma, however, is getting hold of plant material during the growing season. Vaccination price can be bought now during February/March, but apart from grafting, it should possibly only be used for winter inoculation indoors in a more protected environment? Is it possible to store the inoculum purchased now until the recommended inoculation period in the open field this summer (July August) and use them for inoculation or will the chances be better after all if I graft them now in the spring? Am I thinking too hard here?