Yesterday I received absolute last year grown from delivery Martin Crawford i England. Climate change makes the plants winters everything later to him, so deliveries will come later and later each year, making it increasingly difficult to buy from him. A couple of times it has happened that the entire shipment was destroyed on the trip here because it was too cold in budbilen. Apart from that, the question is who makes himself understood what to do with the plants when the ground is frozen stiff, and it is -10 degrees cold? To have them out there in pots is excluded, then stored above ground in pots corresponds to a decrease of about two-growing zones, and our plants would then be subjected to the same crunching climate in the cultivation zone VI / VII.
But there are more reasons to sort out the winter storage of plants other than late delivered plants. Grafted trees we plant never the same year, but keep them in a protected location all winter. For many of the more sensitive plants like walnuts and chestnuts is recommended that you let them grow in pots for at least two summers before they are planted out, as their resistance increases with time. Other plants have time we may not be planting before winter comes or it is next year's course materials that need winter storage.
There are essentially two ways to store the winter we have used. The most sensitive plants, we always keep our (now stuffed full) cellar. The temperature remains between 1-4 degrees all winter. Sometimes you hear that there must be zero temperatures for the plants to survive, but a neighbor who defended what happens to trees and shrubs at different temperatures in winter mean that it is perfectly acceptable as long as the temperature stays below 5 grader. And our own experience confirms this.
When stored in the cellar, it is important to keep in mind that it needs to be mussäker. We lost a dozen apple trees last year when a mouse had managed to get into the cellar and began to ring-bark tree after tree. It is also important that the plants are properly invintrade, so happy to wait as long as possible before setting the plants. Some freezing temperatures will not harm the trees, but it starts to get cold for a long period, it is time to move into the plants. It is also important that the soil in the pots is moderately moist, when the trees actually continues to transpire throughout the winter, albeit at a low rate.
The less sensitive plants, we usually park in sheltered places in the open air by burying the entire pot (or if the root ball is bare rooted) in Lucker land. Then we cover often with leaves or straw to insulate the earth a little. It is important that the soil at the storage place is well drained, so that there will not be standing moisture that may be the death of the root system.
More complicated than this need not be, but it would be interesting how you readers do with your plants need winter storage? I can imagine that there are a lot of other ways that you use. All comments are welcome!
ugh I get a bad conscience o foreboding now. Has a lot left in pots above the earth, covered with tallbar and leaves. The IOF is relatively sheltered patio next to the big house body which will hopefully raise a few snap zone. Last year I dug down a lot of pots. Even managed to kill a number välrotade vinsticklingar I left unprotected in kruka..ledsamt. Thanks for the great article o reminder, have 2 pawpaw there that I will protect little extra.
Thanks for the feedback! If the pots are covered with leaves and pine needles, it might well anyway, but that of course depends a bit on the cultivation zone you are in from the start. Although protection from the house helps a lot. The thing apart frozen winter cuttings I feel well again…
/Philipp
You know that Martin Crawford reply to e-mail and you can easily request that he send the plants later?
My delivery from coming in March.
I tend to over teams receiving plant deliveries in March, August and October.
And, I have had contact with him about it. The problem is that March is usually colder than the November / December with us and he can not send when you have to wait 9 months to. But we usually have contact before he sends now, so that it coincides with too much cooling.
Most deliveries do I receive in April and May, men då är det redan för sent för Martin Crawford att skicka barrotade plantor.
/Philipp
Härdig ingefära! I have a box just like that to make chestnut koji! Måste bara ha! 🙂 Inser också att ett prioriterat projekt borde vara en jordkällare! En stor sådan! I år köpte jag några hösthallon som glömdes bort innan jag upptäckte att det var tjäle i marken. Grävde ned dom i jorden i vedboden där det var otjälat. Täckte sedan med granris och en flyttkartong över. Får se om den lever till våren.
Fun! 🙂 Zingiber mioga heter den härdiga ingefäran, men den får nog bo i växthuset om den ska klara sig här, fast ganska härdig är den!
/Philipp
Vi har ikke jordkælder, så jeg har gravet potterne/krukkerne med de planter der ikke blev plantet ud (amerikansk blåbær, tranebær, et par selvsåede valnødder etc), ned i et hjørne af ‘planteskolen’ og har dækket dem godt til med løv. Så håber vi at de klarer vinteren. Indtil videre er det 10+, så det går fint! 🙂
Vores gamle ladugård har källare. Den er gravet ind i bakken og har tykke vægge af store stenblokke på tre sider. Måske kan man lave et isoleret, frostfrit rum der inde?
Hi! Vet inte om denna sida är aktiv längre men gör ett försök. Hur blir det med ljus i din jordkällare? Funderar på att förvara mina växer i källaren, but where it becomes virtually zero purchase of sunlight and the possibility of other lighting is zero. Will it work?
Hi! There is zero light in the cellar and there seems to be a problem for plants, only they are properly invintrade. If you have a common basement, it is unlikely to be too dry in the air, humidity must be very high because they do not dry to death during the winter, for even though they are at rest, they use small amounts of water.
Hej Philipp! Since I bought your fantastic book this Corona summer, I have been completely engrossed in the transformation that I see in front of me that my garden is facing.. I bought hazelnuts, walnuts (“haratun”), black mulberry (“Krakow”), havtorn, field berries, blueberry and hops. They are now wintering in an unheated outbuilding, but I'm starting to get worried. Now that it is -1 (I live in Falun) keeps the outhouse about the same temperature but I think the heat stays better when it gets colder. But there may be a limit I need to keep an eye on? I also have one (carbon black) basement that holds approx 4+. So it's the better option?
Hello Peter,
how cool that you have been inspired by our book! It is absolutely better to place the plants in the dark basement, as long as you can protect them from rodents that might otherwise cause the trees to bark. In the basement you have higher humidity, which is important. In the outhouse, there is a risk that the pots will dry out during the winter, which can take a toll on the plants. The plants do not need light during the winter, photosynthesis which in itself also takes place in the bark, is at zero level when the temperature is so low, so they do not lose anything.
May I ask where you bought your ‘HAratun’ from? It's not entirely easy to grasp what I understand.
Best regards, Philipp
Thanks for the reply! Then I move them down! This has been the case for many years now – when it is autumn sale, I usually buy more than I have had time to plan for, so I usually have to let the plants go in idea somewhere. In the past, this has mainly been about roses, but now it is a little more sensitive material. Haratun and the mulberry Krakow ( has come from Westergaards. Actually, I asked for Loiko, but got this based on our plant zone. Loiko was probably finished.
I live in an old train station from 1900 and also at a slag area. The garden is quite large but I have to fight against the industrial community's damage to the site then 1/3 consists of slag, 1/3 of railway yard with a lot of sand and gravel and 1/3 previously cultivated land (with hard plow sole). However, the last third has the greatest potential, I think where worms have had to live undisturbed for many decades and perforated clay. Here I am raising the soil surface a bit with new soil, so that the roots get a better start. Otherwise, I think I should not touch the clay so much, then the drainage is very good. In addition to a planned forest garden, I dug 5 hugelbeds in summer and established stone sections. Longing for spring!
Want to once again give praise for the book! As a reference work, it is probably the best I have held in my hand. I return to it almost daily and the plant part has a fantastically good and clear layout.
Here on our island in southern Sweden, we also often hit in Skogsträdgårdsboken. Irreplaceable. Nowadays it does not get very cold in the winter , ca -5 at most, and it is enough to dig into the pallet collars we have and cover with leaves and seaweed. So I did with the Seombadi plants I finally got up in a couple of small pots and now it grows really well ( finally) in that stool…..the plants should be planted out in the spring – 21 we think and it will be very exciting to find out / taste the first leaves…..all autumn they have tasted bitter…but AnneVie Sjöberg believes that they are good during spring and summer. Then they bloom nicely and I have understood.
The seeds of spinach scrap that came from Stjärnsund a few weeks ago are set and under supervision. Very exciting too….we who ate all sorts of junk last spring….in the belief it was spinach junk…!
Har två frågor: vilken bok ni refererar? Would like to buy and consider?
Received today 6 November delayed shipment of trees: they will winter in Malmö and later
Planting in late spring in Småland, the highlands. Apple pear
Barrotade. Can't bear to put them in pits at home in the morning // but it is fine to overwinter them in a large basket with soil and some form of round coat?
Thanks for advice, maria