Winter is no idle time for the woodland garden grower. Right now it's such a perfect time to take the so-called winter cuttings. Winter Cuttings are last year's shoots taken from woody plants. Unlike summer cuttings are completely avmognade, meaning they are not green and soft long as they are in summer.
Taking the winter cuttings, or the cuttings anything really, is a way to self-propagate their plants and one can thus save a lot of money. The shot you take is a clone of the parent plant, and we know thus exactly which properties the plant will have. The disadvantage of vegetative propagation techniques such as this is that you miss out on the genetic variation that you would get at fröförökning.
There are a lot of plants that can reproduce in this way. I made a compilation based on what I found in the literature [1, 2], but are grateful for additions. “With heel” means not only taking the shot last year, but also a piece of the older wood, sitting as a heel on the bottom of the shot.
| Botanical name | Swedish name | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Actinidia spp. | Fuzzy Kiwi | Need rothormon |
| Alnus spp. | To the | Need rothormon, difficult |
| Aronia spp. | Adonijah | With the "heel" |
| Chaenomeles spp. | Rosenkvitten | Difficult |
| Cornus mas | Dogwood | With the "heel", requires rothormon, difficult |
| Cydonia oblonga | Acknowledge | Quite easy. Signet may facilitate. |
| Elaeagnus spp. | Silverbuske | Slow, difficult |
| Ficus carica | Figs | Large diameters best |
| Hippophaë rhamnoides | Havtorn | Difficult |
| Lonicera spp. | Blåbärstry | Light |
| Lycium barbarum | Goji berries | Light |
| Mahonia spp. | Mahonia | Need rothormon |
| Mespilus germanica | Mispel | Difficult |
| Morus spp. | Mullbär | Signet may facilitate |
| Myrica spp. | Fears | |
| Ribes spp. | Currants | Light |
| Rosa spp. | Ros | |
| Salvia officinalis | Sage | Signet may facilitate |
| Sambucus spp. | Elderberry | Light |
| Vaccinium macrocarpon | Tranbär | Pretty simple |
| Vitis spp. | Wine |
The best time to take cuttings, then, as I said from January to February. The cuttings are kept cool (0-4,5°C, in the refrigerator or cellar) wrapped in newspaper. They may not dry out or become too wet before they are put in the ground. The cuttings are taken from the previous season's growth, any time from shot from sunny locations that have grown moderately during the season. In the middle- and the base of the shoots have the best chance to take root. The cuttings are usually 20-30 cm long and 6-12 mm i diameter. They need at least two buds: The lower section (which is an inclined cut to maximize exposure to earth kambiets) made directly during a knob, upper (which is a straight cut to reduce evaporation) 13-25 mm over a knob.
When cuttings are then inserted in the soil, it is important that they get good access to both air and water. Air proportion of the substrate should be 25-40%. A proven combination is 2 parts of perlite / vermiculite with 1 Part square or såjord, but also sand and nutrient poor soil can be mixed. Unfortunately, I had myself poor anticipation of this year and had neither sand or vermiculite at home, so I used quite fine-grained gravel that I mixed with an equal amount planar ground.
The pot you put the cuttings in should be 9-10 cm depth. There is no need for nourishment of the cuttings to School on immediately after they are gathered, otherwise it might be good to fill the bottom portion of the pot with nutrient-rich soil that the roots can look through to late. You can even put down the cuttings directly in a culture bench (particularly good at mass propagation) and then it is important that the soil is well drained. I usually let the cuttings remain in the pot throughout the season and plant them out year after.
Literature
[1] Agroforestry News, Vol7, No.1
[2] Crawford, Martin (2011) Creating a Forest Garden.
Hi! How long will the plant be in the fridge? When shall I then plant it? Can I really put the pot in the winter? What if it freezes.
Sincerely Hanna
Hi! You can have the plant in the refrigerator until you have time to put it in a pot. Last in the beginning of April we should put out their winter cuttings, but as I wrote in the post, it is best to stop them in the ground as soon as it goes. Exhibiting pitchers have gone well for me so far it has not been colder than -10 degrees for a longer period. Short cold snaps do not seem to have been no problem. Is it possible to bury the pot is especially good.
Please
Philipp
Hi
Very interesting and I will continue reading with gratitude. Sea buckthorn is going to be our new hedge bushes and I need to multiply the four she and hanbuskarna I inskaffade last summer.
However, I want to alert you to a possible defect. The text says that when cutting cuttings then lower cut straight and the upper awry. In the photos, it is vice versa. It was reversed in the text might?
Please
Henrietta
Thank you for your attention the small error! I have updated the text and added a small explanation of why you do the cuts in this way.
Please
Philipp
The table says that it is difficult to take winter cuttings of sea buckthorn, The table says that it is difficult to take winter cuttings of sea buckthorn 90% The table says that it is difficult to take winter cuttings of sea buckthorn (2-4 mm i diameter). https://www.researchgate.net/publication/301720024_An_Improved_Method_for_Propagation_of_Seabuckthorn_Hippophae_rhamnoides_L_by_Cuttings
The table says that it is difficult to take winter cuttings of sea buckthorn 6 The table says that it is difficult to take winter cuttings of sea buckthorn: https://cdnsciencepub.com/doi/10.1139/cjps-2017-0039
Thanks for the tip! The table says that it is difficult to take winter cuttings of sea buckthorn. The table says that it is difficult to take winter cuttings of sea buckthorn.