A smooth and efficient breeding technique I started to experiment with as late as last year's inoculation. The technique is particularly useful if you plan to breed stone fruits like cherries or plums (Prunus spp.) which is difficult to achieve with the common ympningsteknikerna. When inoculation is transferred from the variety of the rootstock a single so-called budding talents, an eye", hence the name inoculation. This means you can get more trees from the same branch, since only a bud, instead of two or three buds on seeding. That's probably why this technology has become the most common propagation techniques for both fruit- and ornamental trees in commercial nurseries.
An experienced okulerare can easily create 2 000-4 000 new trees in a day. There is a plethora of varieties of inoculation, but the technology is mostly used today, and that is the easiest of them all, called "chip budding" in English. It lacks my knowledge a Swedish name, but could be named flisokulering and also called for chipping colloquially. The technology is really a sort of hybrid between inoculation and inoculation. The reason is that unlike other okuleringstekniker transmitted besides the bud even a small piece of wood.
The best time for inoculation summer in our climate is the end of July to the first half of August. Then spin the law of the grafts avmognade and can cope with the move to a rootstock. Prepare rootstock for okuleringen a few days before (so that the tree has time to recover a little) by removing any suckers and all side shoots below the prospective site of inoculation.
Select grafts from a healthy shoots to take the knobs off. Check carefully to spin the law are leaf buds, and no flower buds. Gemmae tend to be small and round, while flower buds are often larger and more pointed. Buds from the lower two-thirds of årsskottet usually takes the best. Do not tear the leaves of the scion, but cut them, so that the petiole remains. There you will need later.
Inoculate a windless overcast day (not so easy this summer), Otherwise the risk is that spin-law burn out of the sun or dry out before you have had time to put them on the rootstock. Inoculate immediately after you have prepared the scion. The cuts are made like this (do not forget to sterilize tools before you start):
Begin to make the cut in the rootstock:
Then you make a corresponding cut in the graft to cut out the spin team. Use the leaf stem as a handle to prevent access to the sensitive cambium on the knob back.
It is best if both the scion and rootstock has the same dimensions for the best possible contact between their respective cambium.
Put bud piece in its place and then secure it with ymptejp or special okuleringstejp commercially available. Remember to write a note with the name of variety, rootstock and dates.
It takes two to three weeks for the bud to grow together with the substrate. A good sign of success of the healing is to petiole that you hopefully leaving fall off after a while. Dries it together and remain rather it is a high risk that the same healing failed.
In spring, just before the tree begins to grow, cut the rootstock directly above the new bud. Expect to rootstock to send out a lot of new shots too. Remove them as soon as they appear.
The first attempt to flisokulering last year went very well. 9 of 10 sötrönnar (Sorbus aucuparia var. edulis) I budded on seed grown rootstocks of ordinary rowan (Sorbus aucuparia) came and had a nice growth this year. I grafted a number of plum, but they turned into chips of hungry voles, so there I do not know what the outcome would have been.
P.S. You can also flisokulera with dormant plant material. You do like when you bänkympar (with all subsequent processing steps), in addition to taking a dormant bud instead of a whole scion and uses the same cut as the sommarokulering. Rootstock knipsar you direct the new bud 10 days after okuleringen. D.S.
What I don't understand is how to transplant later if it doesn't have a root
I hope if you understand now. If you still don't understand, there are a lot of videos on Youtube, also in your language.
Hi! I am interested in your working method. Which month is best for successful results.? June , July or August?
With us, the beginning of August is the best time. The rice from which you take the buds must be matured, most often it is the bottom of the current annual shoot where there are buds in the right maturity stage.
Where can I bay this okuleringsklämma
Hi, I tried to eyed with a chip of the stem that you write about above, at the turn of the month Christmas- aug with apple, pear, cherry plums and apricots, peach and the vast majority appear to have grown well. The question now is when more precisely to cut off the rootstock, just when the buds start to crack or a few weeks before or earlier before the sap starts to rise? Can vary quite a bit depending on the spring and type of strain. Stay at gotlan if it helps, mvh Aron
Hi,
What fun that you tested the occlusion! There is no agreement on that with the basic tribe. I have succeeded well in cutting it immediately before the buds begin to crack. Then the tree does not put energy unnecessarily on the buds that are still to be cut off, at the same time as the saw flow has started in a good way. Some people wait a little longer as well and cut off the rootstock two weeks after the bud burst. If you have several plants, you can test both and to see what works best. /Philipp
Hi
Interesting technique. Does beeswax have the same or better effect as inoculum wax?
Has a self-esteem / root shoots cherries that now carry a stem on 15 cm diameter and the top cut four meters from the ground. Many solid branches up there, but how can I get branches at pick height? Is okiling with the tree's own buds a solution or are there better suggestions?
Mikael
Hanna Gärdeklint. Hanna Gärdeklint? Hanna Gärdeklint?
Hanna Gärdeklint, Hanna Gärdeklint. Hanna Gärdeklint, Hanna Gärdeklint.
I'm trying to inoculate apple, peach and apricot for the first time this year. Really fun! Men. I have both the transparent one
The Ymp tape and the “professional eye clamp”:
So it is difficult to get the clamp to press as hard as the tape.. feels like everything has to fit perfectly and firmly even before the clamp and that it only protects a little against contact. Whereas the tape can really clamp the pieces together and compensate for less than perfect cuts. Did I have the wrong technique or misunderstood how the clamp should be used!? The tape provides a completely airtight protection, while the clip slips a little.
I also find that tape works better for chip oculation and have switched to using it instead of the clamps. Glad you're trying out oculation!
Hi.
How long should the plastic remain around the small chip and knob before removing the plastic?
When the bud starts to swell, you can carefully cut a hole through the grafting tape, or as I have started to do recently, wrap the tape so that the bud is not completely covered.