This weekend we had the second meeting at our 72-hour forest garden course here in Stjärnsund. On the schedule this time we had grown knowledge of mainly perennial vegetables and a lot about how we can move from observation to design and what we can learn from nature's patterns for the design of our woodland gardens. We also talked about the earth and took soil samples in the forest garden. Most of Sunday was spent in Putt Myra forest garden where we worked with land preparation and planting of shrubs and trees.
But how to plant it really a tree?
The answer is, as so often, it totally depends on. More specifically, the soil, water availability and the plant in question that determines how we should plant. But even our ability to take care of the tree once it is in place, the impact on the planting technique we choose. Most berry bushes and fruit- and nut trees'd rather have two feet to the water table. Walnuts prefer to and at a distance of two meters to the ground water. Parts of Putt Myra forest garden is the right wet with a high water table during much of the year, and in these places, I have started building right hearty planting hills with a diameter of 1 to 1,5 m and a height of about half a meter. Then, the trees dry, but you still get access to the water when they need it. Additionally warms those hills up a little earlier in the spring, which means a longer season. In very dry places, it may be more appropriate to lower the trees something in a pit to take up as much water as possible. On most plant locations in Sweden, I think however that we serve on a raised bed of some sort.
Now to the actual planting process: Before I plant watering, I always plant to be planted properly. You can also set it in a bucket of water, happily for an hour before planting. This reduces the shock of planting the plants will be exposed to.
Then I dig a pit (in planting the hill or embankment) that is as deep as the pot the plant is in and twice as wide. Digging mastodonthål and replace the existing soil with fine purchase earth as it is in some books I do not believe. The plants should anyway grow in the soil I have and there is a risk that we will spoil the plants with this treatment, which can lead to that they will stop growing when they have rooted through the fine earth. Has nutrient or otherwise difficult soil can however involve low purchase soil or compost.
One should not have to dig deeper than the pot is deep, because the soil will settle over time, which may lead to that the plants fall down into the planting hole, which in turn may lead to the sensitive Roth Alsensjön (which is the gateway for diseases) ports underworld.
The planting hole should be square (especially in clay soils) to reduce the risk of rotsnurr, which may lead to that the plants themselves strangles. I usually loosen the edges of the hole with a hoe to give the roots a better chance to get outside the planting hole. To reduce compaction damage around the planting hole, you can use a sheet of plywood or the like to step on. In this way, our body weight is distributed on a much larger surface and ground damage is reduced. Plywood board can also be used to add soil from the planting hole at, otherwise it gets lost easily.
After last winter's severe injuries by vole, I have started using sorknät to most trees and shrubs I have planted. I cut apart vole online with a pliers and wrap the root ball in the. Vole net is made of untreated iron and rust away over time. Hopefully the plants have time to establish themselves before this happens.
Now it's time to put down the plant. It's good to have fine-grained soil during the seedling, so that there are no air pockets between the plant and the soil because of vole online. Roots need oxygen to grow, but can not get through the large cavities. Once the plant is in place crumbles I downloaded the earth from the site in the cavity around the plant. Once the hole is filled to half watering, I firmly and gently presses down the earth to push out any air pockets. Then I fill again the entire hole and watering again in the same way.
To reduce competition with other plants enough I round all tree, either coated or newspapers or cardboard which I cover with straw, wood chips or hay. To cover one meter in any direction is usually a good rule of thumb. My fruit trees have started to get a support pole to make them grow more upright and protect them against possible high winds. The stick can I remove the second season.
Finally, plant a name plate in aluminum that will last for many years. Since I planted so many plants every year I buy ready-made aluminum labels, but it is also possible to manufacture them yourself, for example, old beer cans.
Now we must not forget the watering throughout the first and sometimes the second season. When dry weather watering I planted trees and shrubs every third day with a half to a whole pitcher of water (5-10 liter), depending on the plant size. If you have fewer plants it does not hurt to water every day when it's really hot, but even here, the local conditions a large role.