I last post in the series of different grafting techniques I described what happens when you take scions. At least as important as having scions of good quality is to have a rootstock that is adapted to the desired object. Rootstock provides the budding tree - which of course consists of two different plant individuals - with a root system. Ympar the open air the existing trees are the choice of rootstock fairly easy: you take what you have. It is more difficult if you are engaging bänkympning, there is a selection of possible rootstocks very wide, especially when it comes to the most popular fruit trees, as apples, pear, plums and cherries.
Different rootstocks have different characteristics that impact on ymprisets behavior and it is important that you know what you want with tree. Do you have many different trees in a small area or is it a more traditional fruit grove of large trees and large spaces you see in front of you? To maximize the production or the tree should be as easy to maintain as possible? How long-lived tree should be? If you want to crack a zone or two? For example, certain rootstocks, as apple 'B9', very weak growth and makes the whole tree is small and rather weak. Meanwhile, the 'B9' extremely cold resistant and enables sensitive apple varieties survive farther north if they are grafted on this rootstock. Other rootstocks called strong growing, as 'Antonovka' and 'A2', and they give time large trees that also can be very persistent.
The whole thing is complicated by the fact that in some cases, to graft a scion of a species on a rootstock of another species. For example, it is quite possible to graft pear at Rowan or quinces. Sometimes you can even use a mellanymp to merge the two individuals who are not really compatible with each other - but that's a topic for a later post.
In this and future posts I want to introduce the rootstock suitable for our climate. First, there is the rootstock that is fit for Apple. Jag är helt säker på att jag har missat intressanta grundstammar eller har gjort fel i tabellerna, so e-mail me at skogstradgard@gmail.com or enter a comment in the comment box if you find errors or have additional information. I will update the tables as I get new information. The entire current list is also available in "Forest Garden: growing edible everywhere" on the sides 424-426.
Äppelgrundstammar
| Apple (Malus domestica) | Egenskaper | |
|---|---|---|
| Malus domestica (F)* | x | Starkväxande, långlivad, ger frukt först efter 8-10 years. |
| Malus domestica 'Antonovka' | x | Fröförökad grundstam som är kraftigväxande och långlivad. Ger frukt relativt sent. Mycket köldtålig och bästa grundstammen för zonerna V-VII där den inte utvecklas till ett lika stort träd som i de varmare odlingszonerna. |
| Malus domestica 'A2' | x | Kraftigt växande grundstam framtagen på Alnarp. 80% av 'Antonovka', långlivad. |
| Malus domestica 'B9' | x | Svagväxande grundstam från Ryssland, 30% av 'Antonovka'. En av de härdigaste grundstammarna. Behöver stöd hela sitt korta liv (20-30 years). Zon I-VII. |
| Malus domestica 'B118' | x | Medelkraftigt växande grundstam från Ryssland som används mycket i Finland. Uppnår 60-85% av 'Antonovka'. Olika källor anger olika härdigheter, som bäst zon I-VI. Trädet blir relativt kortlivat, 20-30 years. |
| Malus domestica 'B491' | x | Mycket svagväxande grundstam från Ryssland, endast 20% av ’Antonovka’. Zon I-VII. |
| Malus domestica 'M9' | x | Dvärgväxande grundstam från England, 30% av 'Antonovka'. Behöver växtstöd. Zon I-II. |
| Malus domestica 'M26' | x | Ganska svagväxande grundstam från England, 40% av 'Antonovka'. Relativt mottaglig för olika sjukdomar. Behöver växtstöd i början. Kortlivad. Zon I-III. |
| Malus domestica 'MM106' | x | Ganska kraftigt växande grundstam från England, 60% av 'Antonovka'. Relativt mottaglig för olika sjukdomar. Tål ej fuktig mark. Blir endast 20-30 years old. Zon I-III. |
| Malus domestica 'MM111' | x | Starkväxande grundstam från England som blir 85-100% av 'Antonovka'. Härdigheten är något sämre än hos A2. |
| Malus domestica 'P22' | x | Polsk korsning av 'M9' och 'Antonovka'. Mycket svagväxande (10-15% av 'Antonovka'), dålig konkurrens mot ogräs. Behöver växtstöd. Zon I-VII. |
| Malus domestica 'P60' | x | Svagväxande korsning mellan B9 och A2, round 30% av ’Antonovka’. Okänd livslängd. |
*(F): fröstam, ie. Because strain is pulled from seed, often with the result that its influence on the graft can be difficult predicted. Something most fröstammarna have in common is that they give quite tall, Persistent tree that is relatively late to the first fruit set
B118 förefaller vara en intressant grundstam. Vad gälller Antonovka har jag läst någonstans att den också skall funka bra på tyngre, något sämre dränerad jord – vilket gör den extra intressant för mig.
Hur lika/olika kan man förvänta sig att vildapelfrön blir?
Jag har börjat experimentera med rotäkta äpplen också,
https://www.orangepippintrees.co.uk/articles/own-root-fruit-trees
En mellanvariant kan vara att ympa lågt på B9 som ju har en taskig rot, och plantera djupt så att ympen kommer under jord, förhoppningsvis kan den rota sig och ta över från B9 efter ett tag. Jag planterade 30 sådana träd 2018, and anxiously waiting to see if I can see any roots this year.
Om man gör så, then what is the use of the properties of the rootstock?
Have seen mm106 without climate damage in Jämtland zone 6
Saknar B118 aom är ca 70% Av Antonovka. Unlike B9, it can do without support and extra irrigation. In Finland, by the way, we consider M Antonovka to be more winter hardy than B9
Hi! Superbra översikt. I have just ordered trees with M111 rootstock. Didn't have the opportunity to choose a rootstock, only limited number of varieties. Would you like to tell us a little about it?, vore det toppen 🙂
Then it's fun to also propagate the substrains on your own.
It can be done in many ways. The easiest is to plant one in the tribe as a regular tree, and cutting it close to the ground when it started system plant. Then there will be lots of new strains that shoot up. When the tribes are 20 cm long, pass on a ring (t.ex. 5-liter flower pot with the bottom cut away) and fill with sand covering 15 cm of the novel strains. These now creating mass smårötter in the sand.
Next spring you can lift the ring, shake off the sand and rock of the new sub-tribes at ground level.
Was recently told about P 60 which will be a new rootstock with better root system, but the same resistance as B9 and may be about 40 % A2. Can bear fruit after 3 year but will not be so old about 30 years.
Please check other sources.
Tack! And what source build your information? Just the life of P60 I does not found any information at all, which may be due to the rootstock not been around for so very long.
Östängs farm website I think, but do not know where they got it from. If it is new, it may not actually be a lot of experience on the age, I think.
P60 was developed back in the 1980s and is mentioned in the scientific literature 1991 (https://www.actahort.org/books/732/732_3.htm). Då kan man förstås inte säga att den blir äldre än 30 years. Kan ju hända att Östängs gård tog informationen från vår bok där grundstammen finns med också 🙂
Behöver P60 stöd? Jag har hört och läst olika uppgifter om det.
Jag har inte använt något växtstöd till mina P60. Enligt litteraturen får de kraftiga rotsystem som gör att de klarar blåst bättre än till exempel B9 som behöver stöttas hela livet.
Hur gamla är dina träd och hur höga? Hade du stöd de första åren?
Träden är som högst 2 m high (after being grazed by deer in the winter 2017/2018). They have never had support and we chose P60 as the foundation just because they would not need support according to the sources we found then. Now I know that the opposite is also stated, but I must say that the trees seem to stand firm, though they have not yet sown any fruit.
Hi! Following the page with great interest, incredibly interesting and well written posts. Hope for a long time to come. (For example, the sork tips I will apply to this year's plantings with myself.)
Applicable basic strains, have tried me to push up rootstocks myself with varying results, of both apple, cherries and plums / currants. When they are retrained, how deep do you dare to plant them? (There is no graft cormorant to consider and keep above ground as with finished trees.) And what about hardiness, is there any theory as to where the predispositions for hardiness come mainly? From “mamman” or “dad”? Some varieties are of course self-fertile, but for example openly pollinated bigarråer that are grafted on hardy root have probably been pollinated by a harder variety (considering that the variety is not self-fertile). Is it pure chance that determines the hardiness or some systematics?
Hi,
I had an Aroma that was approx 8 years. Started bearing fruit.
In late spring, the hare was there and completely destroyed the trunk.
After 1 year, of course the tree died. A few shoots came up from which I experienced it ABOVE the graft site.
Now after many years and the care of the new tree comes fine fruit.
They ripen too early already now in mid-August and the taste is not as crisp as Aroma, but good and fully edible. What can it be,?Which fruit gives the rootstock? Think it was A2.
Note shape and color reminiscent of Aroma.
Hi
We tested B118 last year. We live in Ostrobothnia in Finland. Unfortunately, almost everyone died 50 we grafted. The rootstocks initially looked like a stick with some small roots on it. The grafts started with small leaves, men sen dog de. What the hell was wrong. We grafted on Anonovka at the same time and did the same with them. At Antonovka, almost all of them succeeded in becoming nice plants.
Grateful for answers,
Other
Hi!
Unfortunately, I don't have a good answer to your question, but it could be that the rootstocks had dried out or were too thin to cope with the joint healing. The graft price couldn't have been wrong if everything went well at Antonovka. Very boring anyway!
Best regards
Philipp