Spring 2014 we traveled a 130 sqm greenhouse in Putt Forest Garden Ant. With so much space at our disposal, I could not help to build a small woodland garden of just under 40 square meters of greenhouse southern part. The greenhouse is a so-called polytunnel, with a single layer of greenhouse plastic, something that I think has been quite important for plant growth. the greenhouse is 8 m brett, 16 m and has a ridge height 4,5 m. It is the heaviest clay soil we have and we have jordförbättrat with manure and other organic material to improve farming conditions. The entire glasshouse is connected to our drip irrigation system. Now, four years after the planting of the first trees and bushes it is possible to draw some initial conclusions that I want to share with you in this post.

Zonknäckning with unexpected result
The idea of the greenhouse forest garden was to improve our cultivation zone with a couple of cultivation zones, so that we could grow things that can be grown in cultivation zone II or III. The result was, however, a climate that does not exist in Sweden, with large fluctuations between day- night temperatures and summer, very low humidity and still really cold winters, Thus, like in Central Asia, Himalayas and parts of the US where there is a distinctly continental climate.
Since the receiver to our climate station is in the greenhouse, I have an almost three-year time series of climate inside and outside the greenhouse. The average (!) the difference between day and night temperatures from March to October 2017 low example 26 degrees inside the greenhouse, while out in the open was as little as 9,5 grader (So far this year, the figures 23 degrees inside and 14 degrees outside). Kontinentaliteten (the sum of the temperature difference between July and January and between day and night during June) Located in the greenhouse at 50-60, compared with 30-35 outside. So distinctly continental climate is on no place in Sweden.
Between March and October 2017 was air humidity average 11 percentage points lower than out (the difference in the year so far). Even in winter, the temperature difference between inside and outside pretty big. As was the coldest -18,1 degrees in the greenhouse, when there was -25,8 grader (the 6 January 2017).
These climatic conditions, I did not really became aware of until a year or so ago, meant that some plants were significantly better than others.
Plants that thrive in the continental climate
Already the first year I planted asimina (Asimina triloba), hybridcitrusen ’Dunstan’ (Citrus x aurantinum) and hardy kiwi (Actinidia arguta), which I thought would storm thrive in the greenhouse. The year after the advent Chinese Cornus florida (Cornus kousa var. chinensis), 3 st Chinese toon (Toona) and U.S. pepper tree (Zanthoxylum americanum). The US pepper tree and Toon-trees freezes every winter, and otherwise it is only a female plant of hardy kiwi that has survived, which is not surprising considering that all these plants naturally thrive in lövskogars half shady, moist undergrowth.

The plants that have fared best are apricot (Prunus armeniaca), mullbär (Morus sp.), and grape (Vitis x spp.) all seem to thrive well in the tough inland climate. Mulberry variety 'Illinois Everbearing' now provides fruit for the third year and we have expanded the cultivation of the Swedish variety 'Mullet' also. Apricot cultivar 'Hargrand' bears its first fruits now and we can now confirm that it is not self-fertile. Of the hundreds of flowers produced was despite persistent hand pollination only two fruits. Therefore, it has been joined by two seed grown apricots from the Baltic provenances. Although peach (Prunus persica) we planted last year wintered well in the greenhouse, but is now infested with spider mites, which probably has the low humidity making. If the problem persists, the next year it may move out in the open instead. Finally, we have a prickly plant of variety 'precoce the Dalmatie' (= 'Bornholm') in the greenhouse, which has so far frozen back 80-100% every winter. This year, however, it has grown more than ever, so perhaps standing still for a while.

Two plants that are on the way into the greenhouse is persikomandel (Prunus x persicoides) and wolfberry (Lycium barbarum), that seems completely hopeless to get the crop from here in the open, even though the plant is fully hardy.

Örtskiktet
What has been the biggest challenge is örtskiktet in greenhouse timber garden. We have tested all sorts of perennials, but most seem to emphasize with during the March huge temperature swings, with the summer heat in the daytime and sometimes severe frosts at night. We've tried:
- Potatisböna (American apios)
- Strandbeta (Beta vulgaris ssp. maritima)
- ’Helgoländer Wildkohl’ (Brassica oleracea ssp. oleracea)
- Cikoria 'Red Grumolo' (Cichorium intybus var. foliosum)
- Japanese ginger (Zingiber mioga)
all of which are a little hesitant in the open with us in terms of hardiness.

All that is left of all the experiments are strawberries, but even there, usually half of the plants die during the winter and there will never be any good ground cover them. There I was thinking test is a little different bulbs from areas with continental climate, but much more than that, I can not really think of, so I welcome your suggestions for more (multi) edible plants. Otherwise, we might just fill the space between the trees and bushes with annual crops in the rest of the greenhouse, planted out when the temperature fluctuations decreases slightly and the humidity increases ahead mid-June.
Sorken
You can not write a post on this blog without mentioning vole. Although it thrives in the greenhouse tough climate (albeit a little less than out in plantations) and this winter caused you some concern. To my chagrin took seven of eight grapevine. Luckily left it my favorite kind left, ’Somerset Seedless’, which is now crowded with clusters. The other varieties I had time to take cuttings or layering on and now they are planted in the vole secure cages, but sadly it is still losing a few years of growth.
improvement opportunities
The attempt to crack zones had thus not quite the desired outcome, but now that I know what plants work well, it will be fine anyway, although I still miss the forest garden feel with their various layers and exuberance. If you want to get into a zone or two for real and not end up in another continent, I think we need to focus on another type of greenhouse that reduces fluctuations in temperature between day and night, and increases winter's lowest temperature. A glass house built against a brick wall could be a variant. Another that I go and dream about is a real greenhouse in corrugated plastic with good insulation value. Where it should be possible to create a lush woodland garden without any additional heat. Do you have experience creating timber gardens in the greenhouse environment? Please share here or the Facebook group Forest Garden Growers!



Förslag till örtskiktet:
– Rhubarb, om du kan acceptera höjden
– Jordärtskockor, om du kan acceptera höjden. Osäker på om dom klarar mars, dock.
– Horseradish, tror nog den klarar sig.
– Fransk maskros, klarar sig säkert
– Vallört, ingen grönsak direkt men väl marktäckare
– Orpine, osäker men tror den klarar sig
– Om inget annat funkar så plantera knölklocka, om du törs 🙂
Kanske en sen sort av potatis kunde fungera? Typ Sarpo Mira?
Har också tänkt att man borde kunna utjämna temperaturskillnader i ett växthus med vattentankar och luft-vatten-värmeväxlare med en fläkt (typ bilkylare med tillhörande fläkt). Thus, det funkar helt säkert, men om det är praktiskt möjligt med tanke på hur stor anläggning som behövs, det är en annan fråga.
Thank you for the advice! Knölklockan skulle nog trivas bra 🙂 Fick även tips om sandsenap (Diplotaxis tenuifolia), den är väldigt tålig.
Om du inte har läst Sara Bäckmos blogg, så gör det! Hon odlar det mesta i sina tunnelväxthus!
Jo visst! Vi odlar också tomater, paprika, cucumber, sallad, rödbetor och allt sånt i växthuset. Det är inga problem och växer så det knakar, men de sätter vi ju ut efter att frostrisken är över (eller odlar under fiberduk). Problemet är att etablera fleråriga växter i tunneln som klarar de extrema temperatursvängningarna under vårvintern.
Kan smultron fungera kanske! De verkar ju tåla vårens temp. svängningar i klipphällar ganska bra.. Has been shown to thrive exceptionally well with chips coverage here.
Regarding other types of greenhouse seems dome greenhouses with thermal mass to be competitive out perspective. Growingspaces.se I have been inside and peeked at.
Hi! I use water tanks to even out the daily temperature in my glass greenhouse. I get me that it works even if the difference is not super big. Water tanks can not get enough of these days. A pond in the greenhouse should perform the same function and help with humidity.
I've become very interested in mulberry and would like to try the kind Illinois Everbearing, it teaches give tastiest berries and large harvest.
But what is one to think of the mulberry? I do not even know if it can work here (I live in Hälsingland) even if it is cold enough, tough enough. What seems difficult is avmognaden who often do not have time for when the fall is suddenly winter.
Do you have any tips for helping a plant with avmognad or else face a possible mullbärsköp?
It is important to give the plant a long autumn as possible, without severe frost. It is a combination of “the right plant in the right place” and microclimate manipulation needed for growing mulberry the open in zone IV and above. You'll find some information about what controls invintringen here: https://xn--skogstrdgrden-hfbr.xn--stjrnsund-x2a.nu/bra_invintring/. A series of posts about the microclimate here: https://xn--skogstrdgrden-hfbr.xn--stjrnsund-x2a.nu/mikroklimat-del1/. Then you will find detailed descriptions about this in our book also, mainly in the chapter on micro-climate and the section on plant hardiness.
Hyvens. Boken har jag såklart. I'll try a mullet and an IE in our thinking, I.
Have planted the mulberry "mulle" in the greenhouse together with the apricot, peach and fig. But how does pollination of mulberries actually work?? Brushes on the peach and apricot flowers as it is bad for insects to fly so early with us. On the other hand, I don't see anything that makes sense to brush up on with the mulberry? Hoppas de inte faller av o torkar in 😬
Tack!
You do not need to worry, ‘To me’ is self-fertile and no insects are needed for it to bear fruit. However, we have noticed that the fruits can dry out if they receive too little water. /Philipp
Would it be possible to use composting as a heat source inside a greenhouse or is it too labor intensive compared to the yield of it?? Would be awesome with a dome greenhouse with insulating plastic where you have a compost as a heat source in the middle.
Hi! Don't know if this is really the right forum, but our mulberry tree (me) that we put in last spring don't seem to really thrive. The leaves are pale and curl up and have also got some brown spots here and there. I think it has enough water and our soil is usually good for everything else. The raspberry grows so it cracks a few meters from the tree and it has got a small mound of rough chips to stand in (except the earth then). Do you have any idea what might be the case without seeing pictures?
Hi! Have you mixed chips with soil or is the chip on top of the soil? If you have mixed down the chips, nitrogen deficiency can occur and the chips are also difficult for the roots to penetrate., so that they can have problems with nutrient uptake. It should be some kind of shortcoming in any case, it is rare for vermin to walk on mulberries.
Löparfetblad kan funka inne i växthuset om du vill täcka marken. Den klarade -15 i vintras och också värmen på södersidan här på norra Gotland . Och som du vet väldigt torktålig.
Inte ens den har överlevt, men jag får försöka igen nu när det är mer uppväxt i växthuset. Tack för senast! 🙂
Ojdå. Trodde den var tåligare än så. Kanske nån lökväxt? Ja hemskt trevligt att ses! Vi åkte hem med våra skatter och har fullt upp med att vattna. Det är snustorrt på öjn! 🙂🤗